we got married in a fever: TCB

So we went to Nashville. Our first stop was Vanderbilt University. Vanderbilt was founded with a large grant from one mister Vanderbilt who had never actually visited the south, but was concerned for their well-being after the end of the civil war. So far it seems to be working. Its a beautiful campus surrounded by a fun neighborhood.

more vanderbilt.

This is not a tree. This is a sculpture of a tree. What, you may (or may not) be asking yourself, is the purpose of sculpting a tree that looks just like a real tree? Why not just plant a tree? Well, if you look closely at this sculpture you'll start to notice things that aren't very tree-like at all like a human hand reaching out, goggles, kitchen shears, teeth, and other objects from a human context. Its more impressive and bizarre in real life.

This type of sign hanging in the bathroom stall should alert you to what kind of neighborhood you're in.

This urinal was almost too beautiful to use...almost. Both the urinal and the sign were hanging in a very "cute" café in Nashville called Café Coco. Rusty Miller will be playing on it's back porch on July 20th, so everyone drive to Nashville and support him.

The Nashville strip. This is Honky-Tonk heaven where all the windows and doors are open day and night, clashing out the sounds of young and old musicians all playing their plucky 4/4 hearts out for tourists and tips. great fun. we saw some amazing musicians, one guy played the maddest solo we ever heard while holding cigars in both hands.

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banjo.

Nashville club.

A lake outside of Nashville where we went swimming. The water was pretty brown and the rocks were pretty slimy, but we had fun anyways. And saw a Nashville deer.

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So after two nights in Nashville it was just about anniversary time. Off to Graceland with us. Now, we've never been huge Elvis fans. Its not that we have anything against the king - its just that, like the statue of liberty or any other overused & exploited American symbol, Elvis had become commercialized and by process, very hokey. We had decided to take part in the kitsch of the legend, and had no idea that we would actually become Elvis converts.

Only in Memphis: Peanut butter and banana reeses.

The pool at the heartbreak hotel. We stayed here for two nights, its right across the street from Graceland and they play Elvis movies 24/7.

Graceland. Living room.

Graceland. Mirrored stairway.

Graceland. mirrored bar in the TV room.

Graceland. Cattle skulls molded into the shelves in the TV room. Elvis did all his own decorating. And it was all amazing.

There are three TV's in the TV room because Elvis had read that the president watched all three news channels at once, so he did the same. Sometimes he shot at them with one of his many guns. The monkey is rad.

This is the pool room. The whole room is lined in folded oriental patterned cloth that is held together by a giant button at the center of the ceiling.

Graceland. The famous jungle room with waterfall, Elvis's spanish guitar, owl tiki chair, green shag, and giant panda.

guitar shaped pool at the hotel across the street. easy to sneak into for a swim.

Elvis designed all his own costumes. In the early 70's Elvis was really into his karate, so he, with the help of some fashion friends, created jumpsuits patterned after his favorite gi. Over the years they became more and more elaborate and inspired a whole disco fashion movement. Awesome dragon.

April at the rockabilly café in Memphis.

People in the delta area still wear overalls. a lot. These are pointer brand made in Tennessee. You can order some here: http://www.pointerbrand.com These were found at a massive junk shop on Beale street in Memphis called AW SCHWAB, i think. Its a hundred year old store, part museum, part surplus left overs from 75 years ago. You can still find washboards and fire heated curling irons in their original packaging. April bought a cotton slip and i got some red suspenders. woo hoo.

Beale street, Memphis. Juke joints for half a mile, blues past the planets.
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All along the street were blues kings and queens singing for tips, and locals, feeling a little tight and maybe a bit tossed, who were really caught up in the voodoo:




It was hard to find vegetarian options in the south. We mostly stuck to side dishes. But we found you can always rely on dessert. Raspberry Pecan skillet pie with vanilla bean ice cream on Beale street.


A small soul food restaurant outside of Natchez, MS.


House on stilts, Mississippi.

The crossroads where Mississippi state highways 49 and 61 meet. This is where Robert Johnson was said to have traded his soul to the devil to learn how to play the gee-tar.


Across the street from the crossroads, an example of why its hard for vegetarians in the south.

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This is a small red-eared turtle, about two-fists long. Dude was trying to cross the interstate, and had gotten halfway before he decided it was too dangerous and retreated into his shell. April stopped traffic and helped him along to the other side of the road where he kept on to wherever he was headed.

The M-i-crooked letter - crooked letter - i - crooked letter - crooked letter - i - hump back - hump back - i

Mississippi kitty and a shotgun house.


Beard black green.

Garden district, Nawlins.

Beaded tree. Nawlins.
Loyola University. Nawlins.


French Quarter. One of the most beautiful places in the states. Bourbon street was trashy, as expected, but the rest of the Quarter was perfect.





Voodoo mama's house in the french quarter.